
The entrance way to the orange and lemon groves at the Masseria Marzalossa near Fasano.
Our friend and tourism marketing professional Kate McGrath just returned from her latest trip to Puglia. We’re happy to present her report:
A Visit to the New and the Old Puglia
By Kate McGrath
Puglia, the little-known treasure located in the heel of the boot of Italy, is becoming a favorite with travelers of all ages. It is a special place to see and experience a rare cultural and sensual phenomenon that makes you want to return again and again.
National Geographic Traveler magazine has just listed Puglia as a 2014 “Best of the World” destination. Whether you’re a food and wine lover, a sports adventurer who enjoys biking and sailing or an explorer of history and culture, you can have a reasonably priced trip and enjoyable experience with all the wonderful trimmings in Puglia.
On my most recent trip to Puglia, I combined a visit to the charming Masseria Marzalossa, a 17th Century restored farmland estate near Fasano, with a few days’ stay at the Sheraton Nicolaus Hotel and Conference Center in the heart of Bari, the capital of Puglia. Both lodgings offer the ambiance of both old and new world accommodations and amenities.
When you arrive at the Masseria Marzalossa, the exuberantly friendly Guarini family greets you at the door of this historical landmark. They immediately make you feel at home and ready to relax. A traditional breakfast includes a large glass of orange juice, freshly squeezed from the orange grove. The omelets are absolutely delicious. I took a peek in the kitchen as breakfast was being prepared. If you’ve never seen a Puglian farm egg, the yolk is rich orange in color, not pale yellow like you’re used to. A simple omelet, cappuccino and some tasty warm bread and homemade fig jam was pure heaven!
The Masseria Marzalossa specializes in catering to American and European travelers who enjoy a quiet and relaxing retreat. When the sun goes down in the late fall, you only have to step into the Renaissance-style living room, sit near the fireplace and sip a toasty glass of the local primitivo or negroamaro red grape wine before or after dinner.
The masseria is located near Fasano so it was an easy drive into town to pick up a few things and enjoy the local flavor in the town square. A late morning espresso and an exquisite almond-filled pastry never tasted so good! Make it a point to experience the town life as well as farm living. Each one gives you a sense of the local food and wine favorites and you get a chance to meet nice people, including some who own businesses in the area. They love to share their little known snippets of local history and culture.
The night before I left, I had an urge for pizza. The Guarini family recommended Il Rifugio dei Ghiottoni in the center of Fasano. It was inexpensive and delicious. This is where you taste original brick-oven pizza, a light crust with fresh local cheese and tomatoes melting on your palate at just the right temperature. Yummy, yummy.
On the second half of my trip, the plan was to tour the historical area of Bari and its large shoreline. I enjoyed a comfortable stay at the Sheraton Nicolaus Hotel and Conference Center. It’s an easy drive from the modern Bari “Karol Wojtyla” Airport, which is currently adding a new international extension as tourism continues to grow. What’s nice about this hotel is that you enjoy all the modern conveniences, services and amenities. It’s a Starwood owned hotel with a very accommodating staff that goes out of its way to make you comfortable.
The hotel offers a breakfast buffet with a nice variety of choices. I especially enjoyed the ham and eggs and pastries one day and the fruit yogurt and omelets the next. For a late breakfast one morning, a fruit and cheese plate and a morning espresso hit the spot. Another enjoyable feature at the hotel was an afternoon aperitif and a tasty snack before dinner and enjoying a small pastry filled with cheese and tomato, perfect for a late afternoon pick me up.
The hotel’s international restaurant and wine bar offers a large selection of local wines and cuisines on the menu. While I was there a popular international concert group was in town and I learned that Bari is a popular tour stop for a number of bands and concert singers.
I’d like to share with you a very special seafood and pasta restaurant in Bari. It’s called Le Rune and it’s what I’d call a five-star dining experience without the five-star bill. I met up with a group of friends and ordered family style, leaving our choices to the owner and the chef. Did you ever taste a light pistachio cream sauce over triangular shaped cheese ravioli? If you haven’t you’ve missed one of the best pasta dishes of your life. The fresh salmon was superb, as well as oysters on the half shell. (They were so good, I forgot to add lemon.) The drive back to the hotel was picturesque as Bari is beautiful at night when it’s lit up, the opera house and other cultural institutions ablaze under the starry late autumn sky.
The coming year is an excellent time to visit Puglia’s sights, sounds, scents and to savor its unique cuisine and wines. The prices are reasonable and the people are extremely hospitable, something you can count on when you visit the small towns and villages.
I selected EuropebyChoice for my travel arrangements. I like them because they create a variety of seasonal tour packages for small groups who have specific areas of interests. These travel experts were born in the region of Puglia, so they know firsthand where to get the best value for lodgings, dining, car rentals and day tours.
So after my fourth trip to Puglia, I can only say, you must go and after you do, you’ll never be sorry. Only eager for yet another visit.
If you would like to learn more about Puglia, the United Pugliesi Federation of Greater New York and the website Puglia Connection offer timely news, travel tips and event happenings around the tri-state area during the year.

The Sheraton Nicolaus Hotel and Conference Center in the heart of Bari.